Vẻ đẹp trường tồn cùng năm tháng của tà áo dài Việt Nam

Áo dài Việt Nam xuất hiện trong từ điển tiếng Anh cũng vẫn là “aodai”, chứng tỏ sự biểu trưng mạnh mẽ to lớn cho vẻ đẹp mang tính dân tộc của của Việt Nam được in hằn trên trang phục truyền thống này. Từ thời xa xưa áo dài Việt Nam được xem là đặc trưng trong văn hóa của người Việt. Mỗi chiếc áo được hiện hình trên dáng vẻ thướt tha của những người con gái càng tôn thêm vẻ đẹp.

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Cho dù trải qua bao nhiêu ngàn năm với bao nhiêu biến thể, nét duy nhất còn nhận ra được trang phục truyền thống của người Việt không bị lai tạp với các nền văn hóa khác chính là hai tà áo dài. Áo dài Việt Nam xuất hiện trong từ điển tiếng Anh cũng vẫn là “aodai”, chứng tỏ sự biểu trưng mạnh mẽ cho vẻ đẹp mang tính dân tộc của loại trang phục truyền thống này. Có nhiều người cho rằng áo dài Việt là một bản khác của sườn xám của phụ nữ Trung Quốc, nhưng chiếc sườn xám chỉ xuất hiện vào khoảng 1920, còn tà áo dài Việt đã có từ rất lâu trước đó. Điều đó chứng tỏ áo dài là một nét văn hóa của riêng Việt Nam, chỉ người Việt mới có.

Cho dù giờ đây người Việt không còn mặc áo dài như một loại trang phục thường ngày như trước đây, nhưng những tà áo dài vẫn là một loại trang phục trang trọng để mặc trong những dịp quan trọng. Đặc biệt nhất là vào những ngày đại lễ của quốc gia, thì tà áo dài lại trở nên một loại trang phục mang nhiều nét dân tộc. Chúng ta hãy cùng chiêm ngưỡng vẻ đẹp trường tồn cùng năm tháng của chiếc áo dài:

áo dài việt nam Từ xưa, khi kỹ thuật còn thô sơ, vải được dệt thành từng mảnh khổ nhỏ nên phải ghép bốn mảnh lại mới may đủ một áo, gọi quen là áo tứ thân. Áo gồm hai mảnh đằng sau chắp lại giữa sống lưng (gọi là sống áo), mép của hai mảnh được nối vào nhau và giấu vào phía trong, hai mảnh trước được thắt lên và để thòng xuống thành hai tà áo ở giữa, nên không phải cài khuy khi mặc. Đấy là hình ảnh chiếc áo dài tứ thân mộc mạc, khiêm tốn.

áo dài việt nam Đến năm 1884, văn hóa Tây phương bắt đầu du nhập vào Việt Nam và đem lại nhiều biến đổi với tà áo dài. Từ đây áo dài Việt Nam bước qua một trang sử khác và hé lộ nhiều dáng dấp của áo dài cách tân ngày nay.

áo dài việt nam Sau khi Trường Cao đẳng Mỹ thuật Hà Nội được mở ra, đã có nhiều họa sĩ tâm huyết với tà áo dài dân tộc thiết kế thêm để áo dài dễ dàng đến với người hiện đại hơn, đồng thời thực hiện một cải cách lớn với chiếc áo tứ thân để biến nó chỉ còn hai vạt trước và sau mà thôi. Bước đột phá táo bạo, góp phần hình thành kiểu dáng của áo dài ngày nay chính là kiểu áo dài “Le Mur” do họa sĩ Cát Tường sáng tạo vào năm 1939. Khác với phom dáng rộng truyền thống, áo dài Le Mur ôm sát đường cong cơ thể với nhiều chi tiết Âu hóa như tay phồng, cổ khoét hình trái tim, đính nơ… Chiếc áo “lai căng” này bị dư luận thời đó lên án mạnh mẽ, cho là không đứng đắn nên chỉ có giới nghệ sĩ phong cách tân thời mới dám mặc. Đến năm 1943 thì kiểu áo này dần bị lãng quên.

áo dài việt nam Thập niên 60s-70s, áo dài Việt nam bắt đầu tôn lên những nét quyến rũ nhất của người phụ nữ. Eo được may thắt lại, có người còn dùng dây quanh áo phía trong ở vòng hai để eo đuợc nhỏ hơn, tà áo rộng, ngực áo nhọn, gấu áo thẳng ngang, dài gần đến mắt cá chân, làm cho người mặc có dáng “thắt đáy lưng ong”

Để tăng thêm vẻ nữ tính, hàng nút phía trước được dịch chuyển sang một chỗ mở áo dọc theo vai rồi chạy dọc theo một bên sườn.

áo dài việt nam Từ đây tà áo dài hiện đại chính thức ra đời và vẫn giữ nguyên nét đẹp ấy cho đến ngày nay, dù đã trải qua bao năm tháng chiến tranh và phát triển, áo dài vẫn là một biểu trưng của người phụ nữ Việt.

áo dài việt nam Áo dài Việt Nam còn trở nên đặc biệt khi một chiếc áo chỉ may riêng cho một người và chỉ một người ấy mà thôi, không thể sản xuất đại trà. Một khi đã may thì may vừa khít với số đo riêng của từng người nên tuyệt nhiên áo dài ôm sát cơ thể rất đẹp. Áo dài cũng trở thành một trang phục không thể thiếu khi đi ra ngoài của phụ nữ Việt. Đặc biệt trong Sài Gòn, cuộc sống phồn hoa và ảnh hưởng từ phong cách Mỹ đã khiến phụ nữ nơi đây có phong cách áo dài đa dạng, năng động với đủ màu sắc, hoa văn, chất liệu.

áo dài việt nam Cùng trong thập niên 60, áo dài thêm một lần nữa thay đổi: đẹp, quyến rũ hơn. Đó là kiểu áo dài cổ hở (hay còn gọi là cổ thuyền) do vợ của Ngô Đình Nhu, bà Trần Lệ Xuân, thiết kế (nên thường gọi là áo dài bà Nhu). Chiếc áo dài nổi tiếng với tên gọi áo dài Bà Nhu đã vấp phải phản ứng mạnh mẽ vì đi ngược với truyền thống và thuần phong mỹ tục của xã hội thời đó. Ngày nay, áo dài Việt Nam cổ thuyền rất được ưa chuộng vì sự thoải mái, phù hợp với khí hậu nhiệt đới của nó. Từ năm 2000 đến nay, sự giao lưu về văn hóa, sự phát triển vượt bậc về kinh tế, và cái nhìn hiện đại tạo điều kiện cho các nhà thiết kế thỏa sức sáng tạo, áo dài biến hóa muôn màu muôn kiểu và chính thức trở thành quốc phục của nước Việt Nam.

áo dài việt nam Ngày nay các nhà thiết kế áo dài nổi tiếng vẫn sáng tạo ra những mẫu áo dài cách điệu để phù hợp với giới trẻ như áo dài tay ngắn, tà ngắn và có thể mặc chung với quần jeans, quần ôm…

áo dài việt nam Một số nhà thiết kế còn tìm thấy vẻ đẹp giao thoa giữa nét xưa và nay khi ứng dụng chất liệu gấm vào áo dài.

Ngay cả các nhà thiết kế, người mẫu ngoại quốc cũng diện áo dài. Đây là một bước tiến vô cùng quan trọng của áo dài Việt, khi được thế giới đón nhận với một cách nhìn khác, dự báo áo dài sẽ trở thành một biểu tượng của văn hóa và thời trang chứ không phải chỉ là trang phục truyền thống.

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